A battery problem rarely announces itself cleanly. The engine turns slowly, a light flickers, or the car starts fine one morning and not the next. Before you call anyone, separate the two jobs hiding inside that problem: finding out whether the battery is failing, and physically replacing it. They are not the same task, and a service contract may treat them differently.
Ask who runs the test
A test tells you whether the battery holds charge under load and whether the charging system is working. Ask whether you should test it yourself, have a shop do it, or ask the provider which test it accepts. A result from a shop you chose may carry different weight on paper than a result you wrote down yourself, so ask in advance.
Ask what the swap involves
On some cars, a new battery needs a reset or registration step so the charging and power systems recognize it. Skipping that step can leave the car running poorly even with a fresh battery. Ask whether the work needs special tools, whether the battery must be a particular type, and whether you should keep the packaging or the printed warranty sheet.
Check how the contract treats the battery
Read whether the form treats the battery as a wear item, a maintenance item, or something outside its scope altogether. Ask whether replacing it yourself affects any later claim, and whether the provider wants its own shop to do the work or accepts your receipt. Ask what proof of replacement it needs and how long you have to keep it.
Settle the old battery
Decide who takes the old battery away, who keeps the receipt for the new one, and where that receipt will live with the rest of the car's paperwork. A dead battery sitting in the garage with no record attached is one more gap to explain later.